The Hawaiian Islands have always been my forbidden adult traveler’s dream. As a child I was fascinated by the name, which sounded so exotic to my ears, and was associated with palm trees, volcanoes, and languid dances. A long-delayed dream, due to the obscene costs of the flights.
For years and years I have tried in vain, looking at Skyscanner and similars, to reach this archipelago without spending a fortune, but I have always had to fall back to more affordable destinations. Last October, the revelation: break the flight. For some reason, I’ve never thought about it before …
This was only the beginning; planning the trip was not easy, mainly because trying to keep costs down was really difficult. Fortunately, it was just a matter of renting a car and booking a bed to sleep, with no particular flicker about interlocking itineraries…
An important note, to avoid misunderstandings: “Hawai’i” normally indicates the entire archipelago, however it is the name of the largest island, the one with capital Hilo, which is called by the Americans “Big Island”
Is it worth going there? From my point of view, absolutely yes, some views represent for me what most resembles paradise on earth. Although, it is good to underline it, the sea and the beaches of Hawaii are not those of French Polynesia. I specify this because sometimes you read things like “the beaches are so and so, I thought better, etc.”. It ‘s always sad when expectations are disregarded, but I think it is good to get right info before leaving. Nature is very lush, and this is in my opinion the real strong point.
There are spectacular trails and treks, some even coastal, the below picture is the Kalepa Ridge Trail in Kauai, details can be read in the section dedicated to this island
the sand has all possible colors, white, red, black and even green.
Turtles, seals, dolphins and whales can be seen, depending on the season.
The sea, however, instills fear. There is often wind, even in summer time, and the waves can be dangerous.
Even in very calm sea conditions in sheltered bays there is strong current. The wave can create problems in the excursions to those suffering from seasickness.
FLIGHTS
Lufthansa – 499 Euro, Torino-Toronto, departure Jul. 20 and back Aug. 17.
United Airlines – 395 Euro, Toronto-Kahului (Maui) on Jul. 20 and Honolulu-Toronto on Aug. 16
With 894 Eu I managed to get to Hawaii, in the European peak season. By using the same airline to final destination the costs would have risen from 1300 Euro upwards. A nice savings, therefore! Of course, you must have more time available, and be more flexible. It is also essential to keep long connection times between flights. In my case, I spent in Toronto one night, without leaving the airport, (the UA flight left next day very early in the morning) while on the return a stop of thirty hours in the Canadian metropolis allowed me to sleep in the picturesque Greek district, at hostel price, in an attic with a bathroom all for myself in a beautiful Victorian house, (thanks Air BnB !!) and visit the Niagara Falls.
How to find a cheap flight to Hawaii? The hours of travel are more or less the same on both the east and west route
Via Japan From Osaka there is a direct Air Asia flight to Honolulu, the lowest prices were about 172 € + about 142 € return, when I carried out the search. A flight on Osaka from Italy usually costs around € 500 but you can also find offers at lower prices in low season
Via South Korea From Rome with Asiana Airlines via Seoul you arrive in Honolulu with 1060 € return, costs are updated to the times in which I carried out the searches
Via Canada Flights from Milan to Vancouver with Air Canada are around 440/460 €. Lufthansa about 480. (cheaper in low season). From Vancouver there are West Jet direct on Oahu and Maui (starting from € 186 one way and € 150 in return). The West Jet from Gatwick to Hawaii with change in Vancouver costs from £ 347 one way and £ 258 on return. Gatwick can be reached from everywhere in Europe with low cost airlines (Easy Jet for instance flies to Gatwick). With destination Toronto you can find everything and more, around 480/490 €, with Lufthansa
Via USA The most classic route to Hawaii goes through Los Angeles and Frisco, flights however were more expensive for the dates I needed.
Two words on United Airlines: the online reviews and recent stories on tv news talking about overbooking and mistreated passengers worried me a little bit, but in fact I did not encounter any particular problems. Of course, you have to pay your stowed baggage, and they do not give any food on board. However, there is a lot of legroom. In fact, I could sleep with my head resting on the food tray, impossible task on Lufthansa and other companies, unless you are a Cirque du Soleil contortionist 🙂
INTERNAL FLIGHTS
Regarding domestic flights, I focused on Hawaiian Airlines, they are a bit more expensive (about 10 USD) than competitors, but equipped with bigger aircrafts and wider offer of flights. Nothing to report in particular, always on time. The check-in is automatic, at the first test many people, including myself, were a little uncertain in front of the machines, but there is always some staff around ready to help in case of problems (for instance at Kona airport my credit card was not recognized). By subscribing to their mileage program and requesting the card you will get discounts on the stowed baggage
By landing to Maui and departing from Ohau I saved an internal flight.
These are the costs
90 Eu from Maui to Hilo
97 Eu from Kona to Lihue
62 Eu from Lihue to Honolulu
Total 249 Eu
CARS
Although on 3 of the 4 major islands there is a bus network, renting a car is better option. In this regard, better to book early (January / February max for departures July / August), to get the best prices. I explain in detail: a week of rental in Maui for a basic car, from July 21st to 28th, at the beginning of February costed 273 Eu, including everything + zero deductibles. Unsure on what to do, I lingered too much, and in March, when I then decided to book, the price had risen to 376 Eu. The rental company chosen in Maui, Kauai and Ohau was Budget Car Rental, cheaper than the various brokers. Relatively to Hawaii, I postponed a lot, due to the May eruptions of Kilauea, and at the end of May the price of brokers had become more competitive than the rental companies. So I chose Autoeurope which then transferred me to Alamo
OVERNIGHT STAYS AND MEALS
If I have to tell the truth, the first impact with American supermarkets has been shocking, for the following reasons:
first for the prices (in Hawaii everything is very expensive)
second because even the zero-km food, such as fish and pineapple are very expensive (I got upset on the first evening, at the Kihei Foodland, in front of a 150 gr maki filet sold at 10 USD)
third for the gigantic size (packs of chicken legs or steaks useful to feed a regiment)
fourth for the type of food proposed (whole shelves of drinks of all colours, but few yogurths, few dairy products in general and nothing without lactose)
fifth because the only economic stuff was mainly junk food, which I do not eat. Ok, I know that in US healthy and cheap regarding food do not go together, however after a while I learned to adapt and manage with that, as it should be, and my liver came out undamaged 🙂
EXPENSES
I spent a LOT of money. In 26 days net, in all, 5159 Eu included flights. The cost of car rental has significantly affected (1628 Eu sic!). Instead the daily averages of overnight stays and food are interesting. July / August are considered as high season, just a bit less than Christmas time, but traveling in the so-called “shoulder seasons” prices are lower. Regarding excursions I did as less as possible, but they are completely avoidable. Apart from that, IT WAS WORTH IT and I would do it again a thousand times !!
Here are the details, in case someone is interested in.
Flights, as already mentioned, 894 Eu with departure at the end of July and return at mid-August for the intercontinental flight. Plus 249 EU for domestic flights
Food, 348.31 Eu spent (average of 13.40 Eu per day). I did not mention water, because I always drank tap water, since the mineral one is very expensive. For a half-liter bottle, 0.69 USD the least in supermarkets, and even 3 or 4 USD in bars or kiosks. Also, I never ate at restaurants
Overnight stays, 1439 Eu spent (average of 55.35 Eu per day). Details in each island chapter.
Car rental, 1628 Eu spent (average of 62.63 Eu per day). This cost can be reduced a lot if there are more passengers, and booking is done well in advance
Gasoline, 201.12 Eu spent (average of 7.74 Eu per day). Same as above, even if this is not a large amount of money because gasoline costs much less than in Europe
Excursions, 399 Eu spent (average of 15.37 Eu per day). I could have avoided this expense, but a helicopter flight to see the Kilauea lava flowing to sea is priceless, and same is for a boat trip to the Napali Coast. Helicopter flight costs less (at least 100 USD difference) departing from Hilo rather than Kona. As for the Napali Coast, to save a little you can opt for a rubber dinghy tour instead of a boat, if the sea conditions allow it.
WEATHER / RECOMMENDED CLOTHING
in July / August, warm and a bit more humid than Italy. In general, for all islands, the rule is that the western part is basically dry and sunny, rainy in the east side. The ocean winds that constantly blow on the archipelago come from the east, they stop and discharge rain on the central massifs. It therefore follows that on this side the nature is tropical, luxuriant
Therefore fresh and transpirant clothing is recommended; in addition to sandals, it is necessary in my opinion to bring trail or trekking shoes. Then, a thick sweater, for cooler evenings or the Haleakala volcano excursion, if you’re not planning to go there at sunrise. I went there at around 10 am and a fleece was ok, otherwise, something warmer will be useful in the early hours of the morning.
COMMUNICATIONS
I’ve always used the wifi (present in all the rooms) for Messenger video calls, so I did not need to buy a local sim card
SHOPPING
I did not buy almost anything, just a few keyrings at Pearl Harbor and some shoppers at Ross, everything is very expensive, and I had a small backpack with no place for presents. The sarongs sold at 15 USD are the same that in Bali or Samui can be purchased with 2/3 USD
SAFETY
Hawaii has a problem with the presence of homeless people (here is a newspaper article) living in tents and shacks (another article), and this is why the Lonely Planet guides recommends tourists and travelers not to sleep in county and state camps. A Google search is enough to identify those ones which is better to avoid. Homeless camps are more widespread in Oahu, towards Kaena Point, but I have also seen several in a large park in Honolulu not far from Waikiki. Apart from some of them who have problems with drugs or alcohol, they are generally not harassing.
I do not know if it depends on the above mentioned, in any case on the guides and in the forums some thefts have been reported. Following the normal rules of common sense, that is leaving nothing precious in the parked car, or asking the beach neighbors to check my things while I was having a swim, I’ve never had any problems.